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DOMESTIC CLOTHING SOURCING |
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Value-Added Services: Washing
Garment washing is not just for cleaning anymore. There are many reasons
for garment washing today. The following explains the
"whys and hows" relative to garment washing.
Why Garment Wash?
If you are garment dyeing your product and will also have "white" in
your line, garment washing is an economical way to "shrink" the
white product so that the sizing is consistent with the product you garment
dye. If you're applying artwork to white garments, using garment washing
to preshrink the product will benefit you in two ways:
First, the washing
process removes most contaminants, making the application of artwork (screen
print, batik, garment paints, etc.) easier. Second, there is less risk
that your artwork will be negatively affected by shrinkage that would
take place during home laundering. Many customers want product that is "pre-shrunk." Garment washing enables you to provide pre-shrunk product.
Getting Started
When considering garment washing there are some basics to consider:
- Are
the garments made of 100% cotton? Other fibers and/or blends may
need to be processed differently.
- Is the fabric compacted or pre-shrunk? Garment
wash results will vary
based on the way the fabric was finished.
- Are there anti-shrink chemicals or
starches on the fabric? These will
inhibit shrinkage (and dyeability).
- How much will the garments shrink and will
they meet your specifications after shrinkage? Run shrinkage tests
on all products you use.
- Will you be dyeing the garments after washing?
If so, make sure the garment washer does not apply any after-wash chemicals
or softeners.
Garment washers measure production in pounds of dry garments.
Each garment washer has different production minimums. Some washers
charge a minimum
poundage regardless of the actual poundage. Make sure that
you understand the minimums and how many dozens they represent.
Whitening, Weathering, Distressing, Softening
Garment washing may affect the whiteness level of your garments—they
can look dull or yellow after processing. Most garment washers
can
add whitener
to the process to ensure a bright white finished product.
Make sure to ascertain any costs involved and factor them into
your
product
costing. There are many special effects, such as weathering,
stone washing,
acid
washing, distressing, etc. that can be produced by garment
washers. These effects, while very popular, each have their own
drawbacks.
They are
costly, have higher fallout rates, and are generally rougher
on the fabric. Talk
to your garment washer about prices and what to expect of
the process you choose.
Garment washing can affect the hand (feel) of the fabric.
Garment washers can add fabric softener to the process. Some
use softeners
as part
of their normal procedure. Check with your garment washer
as to any extra
costs
associated with softening. Some softeners can affect garment
dyeability. If you are planning on dyeing your garment-washed
product, be sure
that the softener your garment washer is using will not negatively
impact
your garment dye results. The best way to be sure is to insist
on a "nonionic" softener
and test, test, test samples for dyeability.
Shrinkage
In cotton knits, shrinkage is the consolidation of the knit
structure. Most shrinkage takes place in the dryer. Commercial
Wash and
Dry equipment can accelerate shrinkage in less time (rate
of shrinkage)
than home
laundry equipment. Ultimately all processes will promote
the same degree of shrinkage.
It just takes longer at home. Make sure that the after-wash
dimensions correspond with your requirements. Industry standard
for variance
from specified shrinkage is + or - 5%. As we said before,
test, test, test. The garment wash process is sometimes blamed
for results
outside the washer's control. The most frequently encountered
are torque
or spirality,
identified
by the twisting or displacement of lengthwise seams. This
usually occurs in long pants, skirts, and dresses. Torque is
created
in the yarn formation,
knitting, and fabric finishing process. It is a condition
that is considered "normal
and accepted" in the industry. No one yet knows how
to eliminate torque and, therefore, Style Source nor any
other fabric manufacturer
that we
know of warrants against it in totality.
Surface Abrasion
The physical process of garment washing can cause "pilling" on
the surface of some knit fabrics. This is a normal result.
If pilling is unacceptable to you, request that your washer
use a
cellulase enzyme treatment
(at extra cost). When properly applied, this enzyme can reduce
and/or eliminate pilling caused by the garment dye process.
Be careful not to use this treatment
on fleece!
Quality
The term "fallout" refers to garments that are unacceptable
after garment washing. They may be dirty, stained, discolored,
and possibly torn.
Many stains can be removed with rewashing. Most garment washers
will track and accumulate these garments and rewash them when
they have enough pounds
to meet the requirements of their equipment. Ask your garment
washer about their fallout and rewash policies. Do they charge
for rewash and if so
how much? Ask what their normal fallout percentage is. If
it is over 2% you may want to consider alternative garment
washers.
Remember to cost
fallout into your product's price.
Final inspection is another area that is handled differently
by many garment washers. Some inspect for dirt and gross garment
defects.
Some will provide
inspection services to meet your criteria. Be certain you understand
how your production will be inspected, sorted, and packed,
and as
always, be
aware of the costs involved. There are other services related
to finishing that garment washers can provide. These include
sorting
(by size, color,
etc.), special packaging, hand pressing, steam tunneling, hanging,
and tagging.Your garment washer may provide other services
that may be of
value to you. Ask your garment washer for what you need and
remember to settle
on price prior to commencing production.
Final garment dimensions for garment-dyed or garment-washed
products will be based upon predetermined "after process" standards.
Due to the consequence of fabric shrinkage variability, combined
with normal sewing
tolerances, the range of variation will be significantly
higher than garments sewn from piece-dyed fabrics. Industry
standards of +/- 5% fabric shrinkage
variability illustrate the process capabilities of most fabric
mills. This variability can be reduced by pretesting fabric
lots prior to cutting and
adjusting patterns for fabrics exhibiting variance. It is
reasonable to expect an overall process capability of +/-
3%, which still is enough variance
to cause minor grades to overlap a certain percentage of
the time. Arbitrary "standards" cannot
be accepted if they fall outside the process capability.
For more information on Style Source, click
here or call 910-399-2288. |
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